The Ashes Tour: The (After)Life of Brian

Denmark’s not a place to either skim or try to cram in too much – its appeal is in the detail and with my compact time frame it was recommended I focus on one region and not go hard on covering distance. The obvious choice was the Bay of Aarhus, where the castle ruins Brian chose as his ‘E’ drop spot were located. They were actually closer to Rønde than Ebeltoft but all that meant was I got to spend my time exploring the area in between, as well as the delightful city of Aarhus.

The country had long been on our radar, thanks to soccer club stalwarts Sue and Søren and the annual Danish Christmas Eve celebrations they host. We all look forward to the tradition and both Brian and Ken counted this couple among their dearest friends. For me they’ve been a constant of the last 25 years and their tales of life in Søren’s birthland sure did whet the travel appetite. Other Dane expats we’ve come to know have only reinforced our fondness for the species.

Denmark’s history-rich towns are very like the people themselves: functional, uncluttered, but with the cheeky charm of the unexpected. Every corner seems to hold a story and reflect a culture that is authentically chilled. We might like to claim the laid-back approach as distinctively Aussie, but we’ve got nothing on Denmark’s Hygge. Pronounced “hoo-gah”, this prevailing concept involves a contentment that focuses on emotional stoicism, enjoying life’s simple pleasures, and not stressing over minor issues. Independence is prized, but balanced by a strong community spirit and sharing the love. Hygge has no direct English translation but “we-fullness” comes close.

I was treated to it from the moment I landed at Aalborg and was confronted by the railway network map. An airport security officer moseyed on over to clear up my confusion, telling waiting passengers he wouldn’t be long. They just nodded amiably while he directed me to download the Rejsekort app and explained how to use it and where to go. The cheery on-board ticket collector and fellow passengers proved airport dude was not a one-off and everywhere I visited continued the easygoing vibe. I was so Dane enamoured that by the time I boarded my exit flight to London, I was mentally packing up my life and moving to Ebeltoft to live on waffles and art.

Ebeltoft: I fell in love with that jewel of a town but let go the gushing long enough to remember why I was there. On my last morning I walked to the ruins from Rønde township, thinking I’d have plenty of time to do the ash drop from the tower and get back to meet the cab that would take me to Aarhus Airport. The path to the turnoff was a leisurely trot on this late autumn morning, with cyclists and walkers and dogs waving and wagging (that Hygge thing is not confined to humans) but when I got a few metres onto the track, water was lapping over it and my footwear wasn’t meant for wading. I was forced to go wide to find a less soggy route… really, really wide. By the time I reconnected with the causeway and saw how much further there was to go, I worried I might get stranded by the incoming tide so placed Brian’s ash pebble on the beach, close to but not in the ruins. I later learned that not only isn’t the water tidal, but from the top of the tower, the panorama is stunning.

I can believe it. What I could see from the causeway was dramatic enough… sweeping beech forests and the undulating hills of Mols Bjerge National Park, descending to the ruins like an amphitheatre. The thoroughfare is Denmark’s longest and best-preserved medieval road, built in 1313 by King Erik Menved. He intended it and the castle to keep out rebellious peasants – ironically, the same peasants who had constructed it in the first place.

It was disappointing to get so close and not quite make it to the structure itself… but that just means an encore visit needs to happen. Meanwhile Brian gets to soak up some historical Viking feels in one of his most anticipated destinations.